Stage 3 - Melbourne to Apollo Bay

After a pleasant flight we arrived In Melbourne at noon. It was sunny and hot. We picked up our little Hyundai Getz and off we set for the delights of Australia and the great ocean road. Thankfully the airport was on the right side of the city for our route and we didn’t have to cross it as there were toll roads….Our route took us out on the Princes Highway until we hit a sign for the great ocean road. We stopped off on the way to get some fruit and some water to see us to a town with a supermarket.

We passed through bushland and came to “the road” at Bells beach, somewhere we had been told to see. As we pulled into the car park the first thing we saw were kangaroos in the field behind us. Been in Aus two hours and we were seeing ‘roos already. Anyway I digress, Bells beach was sadly closed due to a major surfing event – remember those dudes from Raglan – they were all here being cool and stuff as they say. We stood a while and watched from the cliffs. There was TV coverage there so it was obviously serious stuff. We drove on down the coast and the beaches were wonderful as the road wound its way down the coast. We stopped off at a couple of lighthouses and “scenic lookouts” it was quite pretty.

We eventually arrived at Apollo Bay which was a lovely little resort. We went to the wrong backpackers first off – good job as it didn’t look too good. We then found our digs for the next couple of nights and we were pleasantly surprised. It was called a backpackers but we had a self contained apartment with kitchen, dining area and bathroom with spa bath, wow such luxury. There was also a supermarket across the road – how handy is that!!

The next day we went in search of Koalas in a valley river walk. We drove up the unsealed road to the point as detailed and saw nothing. Well when I say nothing there was a sea of eucalyptus trees and dense bush forest which in itself was quite spectacular. There were no koalas. We walked back to the car a little despondent and set off back down the unsealed road to the main road.
To our surprise, the little guys were all sat in the trees above us sleeping. We saw at least a dozen!!! They sit clinging to the smallest and thinnest of branches just sleeping. To say we were pleased was an understatement. In one tree it was quite blowy and the branches had some serious sway and he just carried on sleeping not bothered by the wind.

In the afternoon we went to a hilltop canopy walk – as it was described. In actual fact it was a bit of a disappointment after the mornings adventures with the koalas. It was very touristy and busy and certainly no where near as pretty as where we were in the morning. We did see some lovely parrots in there though. The canopy walk itself was quite good, high up in the forest on a steel constructed range of linked bridges. It was cloudy too by now so not that good.

Another splendid evening of luxury was had in our super apartment. The next day we were told by the owner of the digs that we should visit Tower Hill on our way to Port Fairy. Apparently it is a volcanic basin which is teaming with wildlife which lives there – not been put there. We will see………

The run down to Auckland and on to Oz

Today we are heading for Dargaville for a night via the Waipoua Forest. We are going to see Tane Mahuta – The Lord of the forest - a 2000 year old Kauri tree with a girth of 13.8 meters. After Dargaville we drive on to Auckland where we hand back the car with our 5500 kilometres on it and our last night in NZ prior to our flight to Melbourne in Australia the following day.

The start didn’t quite go to plan as we visited the local Pak n Save for a few things where every other resident of Kaitaia appeared to be so we were there quite a while. We then went for some gas, as did everyone else and eventually got away. Another ferry had to encountered today and after a reasonable crossing a final sharp left into dock didn’t go down too well with Mrs D’s digestive system…

First stop was Tane Mahuta, which I have to say has to be seen to be believed. I have never seen a tree so big it was a real wow moment!!
We then drove down through the Waipoua forest towards Dargaville stopping for a lunch break at a forest viewpoint where all we could see was solid rain. We got to our small but cosy digs – Greenhouse Backpackers – which was a converted primary school. After a wander into a quiet town we dined then sorted through our stuff to try to minimise it for the plane. It also gave me a chance to catch up on a few days blogging.

Away by 9.30 next day we stopped off at a Kauri Museum on the way into Auckland. It was very good not just displaying trees and gifts but lots of old photos, workshops and told the story of the human side to the trade. More horrendous NZ driving antics were then experienced on the way down SH1. We got into Auckland around 2.30ish and found the digs – the Brown Kiwi – fairly easily. More than could be said for finding the car rental drop off!!

The digs were OK for Auckland but we were only in transit and sleeping there. In the evening we met some friends of my brother who have been out in NZ for a couple of years. They seemed quite happy with Auckland and the move away from the UK. It was a very good evening spent chatting in a Belgian beer café. This meant no real ales but it was a good place to sit and chat. They served Hoegarden in huge glasses like buckets and all the other lagers came in small, medium or large most interesting. I had a couple of buckets of Hoegarden and Mrs D tried one too. Apart from there being too much in the glass it wasn’t very popular with her either so I finished it off. Anyway, the evening went very well and those lovely people offered us a bed the next time we were to be in town which we may well have to consider…..

Our airport shuttle picked us up at 0450 the next day and we were all checked in by 0600. The flight left on time at 0750 and went OK. Super views over Taranaki and the Tongariro volcanoes as we flew out. Australia was just under four hours away and a new adventure was about to begin.

We were sad to be leaving NZ, not particularly the north island as our hearts lie with the south. We found ourselves in the last few days on north island saying when we are here next we will go here, do this and not bother with there so I would like to think we will be coming here again. We have had a wonderful time, met some lovely people, seen some of the best scenery we will probably see and been extremely lucky with the weather. Australia has it’s work cut out to beat what we’ve had, seen and done so far.

North Island facts – driven 2562kms, stayed in 10 different places over 19 nights. Sun shone every day but two. Longest drive between digs was Thames to Pahaia at 226kms and shortest was Picton on South Island to Wellington on the North Island at 23kms + ferry. Best digs were Wainui Lodge in Russell, worst was Sunset Lodge in Taupo. Favourite place was Tongariro National Park and least favourite was Kataia. Best host was Ron at Wainui Lodge, the worst were the guys at Sunkist Lodge in Thames who have a bit of a curt reputation.

Pix are – ferry across the bay – Opononi beach – Tane Mahuta (see the folks at the front) – info – digs at Dargaville – 2 from the kauri museum.

few bits here - pix to follow D

The top of Northland.

After a splendid drive up round the scenic route with no mad Kiwi driving we arrived in Kaitaia. Kaitaia, let’s just say it’s an odd sort of place where all walks of life live and very little goes on. A little unfair I suppose as it was Easter Saturday. However, evidence of the loony driving antics was apparent here with some of the local types.

The hostel was OK, we had a nice room but it was huge compared to Rons place with 70 beds. It was also full with apart from us a group of Indians originally from Mumbai and now living in Auckland up here on holiday for a few days and a large group of overseas students on an organised weekend away. The kitchen was busy at meal times but there were some splendid curry aromas wafting around even at breakfast time.

We “did Cape Reinga” when we were here last time so this time we wanted to look at what else was in the area. Cape Reinga is the cape at the top of the ninety mile beach peninsula where the Pacific on the west meets the Tasman from the east. It is also a Mauri spiritual place where it is believed all Mauri souls go to after they die.

Ninety mile beach is in fact ninety kilometre beach (I guess mile sounds better, it also competes in length with its Aussie comparator.) It is literally sixty kilometres of straight beach and sand dunes all the way to Cape Reinga.

On the day we arrived after getting established we had a walk into town where nothing was happening apart from “the Warehouse” where we had a final fix then we drove out to the coast at Ahipara to watch the sun go down and see all the locals driving up and down the beach on cars, 4x4’s and quad bikes. It was like the M1 back home!!

We went back after sunset and slept well. The following day we went to look at the southerly entry/exit road to ninety mile beach (see pix) where road rules still apply and some fool had gotten stuck in the sand in his car. The tide was coming in so we had a walk down the beach and had to keep avoiding traffic, unusual for a beach.

We then went back to Ahipara where we had been told we could go dune boarding which involves sitting on a board and hurling yourself down a giant sand dune at breakneck speed. Armed with our dune boards borrowed from the digs we set off on what we were told was a 40 minute walk to the sand dunes. Over an hour later and dodging 17000 4x4’s hurtling down the beach we arrived at aforementioned sand dunes.

They were big see pix but for some reason we couldn’t get the speed we got last time we did it. Could be that last time we had lay on dune boards and these were sitters (techy dune board stuff.) Oh well we tried and had a great walk in the hot blazing sun down a lovely coast. We set off back through the onslaught of cars, bikes and quads then headed back to the digs for a big shower and dinner. Tomorrow we are heading south on the last part of our trip back to Auckland stopping off at Dargaville on the way for a night.

Pix are – first 3 are at 90 mile beach – 2 of folks on the dunes. 2 movies of the dunes.

The Bay of Islands

First things first, the drive up to the Bay was the worst experience of crap driving we have encountered the whole trip so far. Some of the kiwis drive in the boot of your car, flash you, blast you, wave you forward to go faster and just generally can’t wait to get past. No wonder there are so many signs here about driving too fast and the consequences. Coincidentally, as this blog is a few days behind where we are, the Easter weekend has been dubbed Black Easter. This is because there were so many road accidents, deaths and serious injuries on the roads over the Easter weekend. According to the local rozzers all un-necessary and most speed and alcohol related. What a race of speed junkies!

Arriving at our one night stay at the pickled parrot in Paihia we found a lovely little hostel and again some more interesting people to talk to. We had a walk around the town which is next to the Waitangi Treaty grounds where the treaty between the Maoris and the British was signed back in 1840. Anyway, it all happened here many moons ago and now like lots of other places Paihia plays host to tourists and all things watersport.

Across the bay is “romantic Russell” as it is known locally and where we will be staying for the next two nights after here. Coincidentally it is our wedding anniversary whilst we are in Russell so how fitting…..

To get to Russell from Paihia it is a ferry trip across the bay or a hell of a long drive round. So I braced Mrs D for the high seas and we went on our short ferry crossing and all went well. We found our home at Wainui Lodge which was a small 7 bed hostel in a beautiful setting in regenerating bushland overlooking the bay. The owner Ron and his German wife Elke were very friendly and Ron was extremely helpful and knowledgeable about the area and it’s wildlife.
We went on into Russell for a look round and had a beer in the oldest hotel in NZ before returning for some dinner. The digs were superb and we were the only ones in ‘til late when a nice couple from Switzerland arrived – Siegfried and Briggitta. We sat chatting with them with a beer before bed in our bushland hideaway it was wonderful.

The following day the Swiss wanted to stay another night as it was so nice but Ron said he was booked up as it was Good Friday and they had to move on. It was a shame as we would have enjoyed another evening with them. Also as it happened Rons guests never showed so they could have stayed anyway, what a bummer.

We breakfasted looking out over the bay then I finally got to go kayaking on the sea in the bay which was great fun. (Surf spiel - The only time we were like interested in the tide time man, as it had to be like 3 hours either side to get near the sea!) We then had a lovely walk along the coast and then back to the digs for a celebratory bottle of fizz and dinner alone as there was no-one else at the hostel. It was wonderful here and we didn’t want to leave.
The next day was up and off to Mainstreet Lodge in Kaitaia at the bottom of ninety mile beach via a scenic route which Ron told us about.

Pix are – across the bay from Pahia – the oldest church in NZ in Russell – giant fig tree next to Russell police station – view from Russell flag pole – some fool in a kayak – our hideaway at Rons – local sign – Rons place in the bush – we thought Corfu bamboo was big – boardwalking – guess who – view from our hideaway.

Kiwis and the Coromandel

An early start today and breakfast on the hoof so we could get away from “cool” Raglan. We found a lovely breakfast stop too – see pix. Also we were detouring a bit so we could see some live Kiwis before we leave NZ.
The Kiwis have a special place in our hearts (the feathered ones on this occasion.) The little guys (not so little actually) along with a few others have such a struggle against all the land predators around the island in particular the bush tailed possum from Australia. Bizarre really as the same possum in Oz is a protected animal yet over here in NZ there are millions of them and a nuisance they are too. I digress, we called in at a Kiwi house on the way to Thames in Coromandel. Here they had a healthy breeding programme under way and were doing their bit to stop the guys being wiped out totally. Albeit in a managed environment but still quite a good one with far better chances of survival.
There was a brown kiwi and a spotted kiwi here and both were foraging around their domains. Their day had been turned around so that we could see them so our day was their night and our night was their day. It was as always a great pleasure to see these wonderful creatures. There are some similar birds wandering around the island and plentiful in number, flightless and minus the famous kiwi beak and they are called Weka see pix. Sorry no Kiwi pix as the flash would upset them
So, after our kiwi fix we drove up to Thames and the Coromandel peninsula. We stayed here last time and at the same place as it is well placed to explore the area. Once again when we were here last it was wet and we couldn’t do the pinnacles walk so I was hoping for a better time this time.
On arrival at Sunkist we noticed it had been tidied up a bit but the owners were still the same and the dog was still sat outside the kitchen. We were actually put in the same room as last time which was OK.
So what about Thames, (education time) the region was built on logging the 4 to 5000 year old Kauri trees which were abundant in the Kuraranga Valley. In the early 1900s the trees were almost logged to extinction but some area in this and other regions were saved. Kauris are very tall, very broad , straight and knot free so ideal for ship and house building. The logging stopped around 1930 (there weren’t many left by then to cut down!)
This was followed by a mini gold rush bringing more folks to the area. Nowadays Thames plays host to many a traveller looking to explore the area. Most of the buildings in town are made of timber and it has the look of an old western type town.
For us this time it was a D type walk one day and a drive round the peninsula calling at Whitianga the next, weather permitting. The first evening we sat with a lovely couple from Melbourne who were over on holiday and wanting to come and live out here and the second night we sat we had a BBQ and the third we sat with a couple of guys from the states who were motorcycling around the world. All entertaining stuff.
On the day of the D walk it was as usual cloudy……so off we went up the valley to the car park. Yet another 10kms of unsealed road, I hope these hire cars don’t have trackers on them or we’re stuffed! We set off up through the bush over a couple of proper rickety looking swing bridges. We are actually following the route the supply ponies used to take once a week to the camps up in the hills where the guys would live for 3 months at a time. The track was very uneven, bouldery and rocky and heaven knows how those ponies managed to get over and up as we were struggling.
The pinnacles are limestone pillars pushed up through the volcanic era and a favourite with trampers (walkers to us Brits) as the last section is quite steep and the views rewarding (when it is clear.) Onwards and upwards and no grumbling at the back today. Well, that was until it started raining. We sheltered for a while then set off again and it started to clear. I forgot to mention that this route is so popular that DOC as it’s know out here (Department of Conservation) built a trampers hut with basic bunk and cooking facilities up here at the base of the final climb.
As we approached the hut Mrs D was not interested in going any further and went to look at the hut and set off back down. I like the fool I am decided to do the last bit and go up for a look as it was now clear. It was a hell of a stiff climb firstly through open scrub then over what seemed to be millions of wooden steps then finally up some rock ladders and rock bars to a platform at the top!! I was knackered!! However the views were worth it. After the obligatory photo shoot and rest I set off back down. Good start to return journey slipping down on my arse, what a muppet, I then tried to keep a mental tally on the steps ( as I had nowt better to do) and lost interest at 500. That’s over 500 up then the same back down, my poor knees were shot.
I eventually caught up with Mrs D who was ambling along back down and we headed back to Thames for a beer and some grub. A splendid day was had by all and a good high up fix was achieved.
The next day we set off to do a walk to a small Kauri plantation, one of the few left in this area followed by a drive over to Whitianga. The walk was short but excellent and the drive to Whitianga was scenic and enjoyable, well that was until the fuel gauge plummeted to the bottom and I gingerly drove round the coast slowly on fear of running out of gas!! However we made it and fuelled up in Whitianga.
Lovely place, typical tourist resort just up the road from hot water beach. This is where the old geothermals – remember them – come up through the crust and heat the water below the sand. You have folks sat around in self-dug sand pits bathing in hellish hot water. You can actually hire a shovel on the beach – only in NZ!!!
We got a ferry across the bay and a walk then back to the car and on to Thames for the usual evenings lemonade and food fix. Next day was a longish drive up to the Bay of Islands a beautiful area where we were rained off last time so let’s hope it’s better this time.

Surfs up man in Raglan………

Raglan is famous for its surfing beaches and the longest surf wave ever recorded featured in a 1960s cult surfing movie. So much so that Raglan has hung its hat on this fact and most of the hostels in the area keep a copy of the movie on site for you to watch.

Neither Mrs D or myself are surfers which may come as a surprise to some but we just came here to look at the west coast and Raglan. Now then, this is the first hostel we have been to where we did not fit in and it was not because we were old buggers either. We just didn’t surf, understand this new language of surf pikes and breaks, nor did we care what time the tide came in (which was actually a good time as all the surfers had cleared off out to surf!!”) We should have guessed actually when we were signed in and he said “oh, we don’t get many Brits here!” Obviously not many Brits surf either.

The hosteliers all ate, drank and slept all things surf. Well I’m sorry but it’s boring! Even the young hostel manager was the same, all he was interested in was a) the surf & b) all the surfing girlies parading around in their bikinis in front of the male “surfing dudes.” Whilst I’m on a roll what is it with the youth and this other Americanism “like.” Just how many ‘likes’ can you fit into one sentence, it seemed to be a competition here as every 4th word was “like” it drives me nuts. ‘Basically’ was bad enough in the UK but this is worse.

Anyway, the hostel was nicely laid out the facilities were good our room was good and looked out over the bay (so we could keep on eye on the tide and report in.) Raglan itself is a pretty town set in a large bay leading out into the Tasman Sea and the “big surf, dudes.”

We had a lovely walk along the beach on our first day and borrowed a couple of bikes and went cycling the second to see – yes you guessed – the surfers in action. No, no, not that, out at sea. It was a beautiful day, scenery was good and the surfers to be fair were pretty good at their chosen sport.

On the way back we saw a shed load of guys kiteboarding the waves, never seen so many at one time and most impressive too. We didn’t meet any people of note here as no one spoke to us (apart from Suz, she was OK the co-owner of the place.) After an evening wander around town we dined and couldn’t wait to leave the following morning heading off to Thames via a Kiwi house. Or should I say in the spirit of things – “we were like fed up man and like ready to move on because it was so like you know unfriendly here. So the following day we like checked the surf times man, checked out and like cleared off sharpish as we just weren’t interested dudes!” Until next time…….

Pix are from top left – footpath sign at Raglan airport, Raglan, a feathered friend, 2 of the surf and surfing dudes, the kiteboarders and the view from our room.