Stage 2 – The North Island & Wellington

As we leave the sounds of Queen Charlotte and head into the open seas of the Cook Straits the “swell” changes. This is not good for the Mrs D department. The sound was fairly calm and easy sailing but sadly the Cook Straits were not. It got a little choppy and this resulted in Mrs D having to sit tight on the deck and study the horizon in order to “keep things inside.”

On the way across the straits we were joined by dusky dolphins a few times which was very nice to see. They look so small from high up on the ferry though…

North Island and Wellington got nearer – its only 35kms between the North and South islands but it takes 3 hours due to the length of the sound from Picton to the sea and the Welington headland we have to travel around on the way in. In actual fact Wellington is marginally further south than Picton by the compass.

We pulled into Wellington dock and were immediately shocked by the amount of traffic on the main highway going through the city. Not seen traffic like this since the M25 round London!! Wellington presents itself as a high rise, high flying city. Well I suppose it needs to it is the capital of NZ for goodness sake.

Once off the ferry it was a relatively short drive to Plimmerton and Moana Lodge. As I said earlier we have stayed here before so we know the place and you can get the train into Wellington and leave the car behind. Last time we stayed we had an upstairs sea view room and it was very nice. This time we got the last room and it was a downstairs sea view room. It smelt a little fusty as the windows were for some reason painted shut rendering the room airless. Still the place was good and the facilities excellent.

We cooked in the first night and sat chatting with a couple of Kiwis on holiday, a UK girl who had just got a job in Wellington and a Bavarian guy who was out there working for 12 days. The kiwis were from the Coromandel and on holiday on their motorbike for a couple of weeks. The Bavarian guy was working for a sister Company from home and keen to see some Lord of the Rings stuff so we helped him find an appropriate tour for his weekend off. He was commenting on the work approach out here saying that all stops every 2 hours for a break when tea is drunk and pool is played and that all finishes early on a Friday and all down to the pub for an end of week drink!! No stress or pressure out here he said. I wonder who has it right? The girl from the UK had just landed a new job as a speech therapist for local schools “with a car” she kept saying and was over the moon!! They were all very good company and an entertaining evening was had by all.

The following day at breakfast we were chatting with a couple from Switzerland who we met at the digs in Picton previously before we headed off into town on the train. From the front of Moana Lodge you can see the top of the South Island when its clear. It was a bright clear day so the walk to the train was pleasant.

Now Wellington is known locally as windy Wellington as it is always windy!! Today was no exception. The crossing between the two islands can get a little bit rough but I forgot to mention this to Mrs D as otherwise the ferry crossing would have been off!! As I said we were lucky and our crossing wasn’t too choppy. Sorry I am rambling away…..

We got into Wellington and had a look in the harbour area and up and down a couple of streets. During our discussions with Mr Bavaria the previous evening we noticed that Weta (the Lord of the Rings studio workshop) had opened a “cave” so we had to find it. We asked at the info centre and were directed to the number 2 bus to Miramar. (Hollywood Kiwi style.)

Apologies here to none LOTR anoraks but it was ace. There were models and figures, details on the films worked on and a short video on the Weta workshop and making of the rings stuff. A proper LOTR fix was had. Back into town on our number 2 bus and a quick pint at Macs brewery bar on the harbour front before the train back to Plimmerton.

On the way out in the morning we noticed a chip shop (like you do) and thought we would get some on the way back and have a night off cooking. We did, the chip shop was owned and run by Greeks who had pictures of Meteorea (which is not far from Corfu) all over the walls. It was a bit of a surprise and the grub was good into the bargain!! The owner looked equally surprised when we thanked him in Greek.

Back at the digs we sat down with our takeaway to which we were told by the Kiwis “that is cheating!!” We offered some lame excuse and got on with it. More chat in the evening and a relatively good start to our travel experience on the North Island. An early start the following day for our 300kms drive to Plateu Lodge in National Park village and the mighty Tongariro National Park.

Pix are from top – 2 shots of Wellington as we came in on the ferry and 3 from the Weta Cave

Picton

More sunshine and yet another stunning drive. On the way we passed an area of forest busy with choppers putting out a forest fire. There had been local evacuations etc as it was quite fierce. We stood for a while watching the choppers collecting water from a local river and taking it up into the hills to put out the fires. We then passed through Havelock which apparently is the green mussel capital of NZ!! Mussels for sale everywhere, mmmm my favourite!

We then took the scenic drive around the bottom of Queen Charlotte Sound and it was stunning. People pile into Milford Sound in Fiordland and to us here was equally as beautiful and less busy with NO SANDFLIES, gotta be a plus!!

Picton to most travellers is the entry or exit point to or from the South Island by ferry. We were met with a very pretty little town sat in the most wonderful setting. Our digs were 3kms out of town up the valley with views across the sound.

Quick bit of education so pay attention please – Queen Charlotte Sound was named after King George III wife. It was the British explorer James Cook who between 1770 & 1777 made four visits to the sound and gave it the monarchs name.

Moving swiftly along, our digs were superb. We had an upstairs en suite room with splendid views from our balcony. The kitchen area was big, well equipped and free fresh bread every morning. Yet another good one and at only £28 a night for the room a bargain too!
We drove into town for some supplies and a walk about and coincidentally it just happened to be Paddys Day 17th March. Well, you have to have a Guiness for the lads in green. We found an Irish Bar – Seamus’ Bar, with live Irish Music and Irish dancing going on so we nipped in for a quick Guiness. A fun time was had with all the fancy dress types and all the Irish Kiwis (interesting) then it was off back to the digs for some grub.

The owner of the BP was a lovely lady of mature years who was very helpful and very friendly. She had a young Japanese girl staying with her on an exchange programme who was helping out around the BP. We sat talking with her in the evening and exchanged stories.

The following day we walked into town on a trail and then out on a headland via another track. It was a super day and a lovely area. Picton has plenty to see, plenty of walking and enough going on in the town. We wished we had more time here but sadly not. After a good days walking we had another good feed and an evening drive up the valley to an old Maori settlement before retiring for the day. It was a subdued evening as it was our last on the South Island which has become such a special magical place to us. We will be sad to leave it tomorrow, as the North Island doesn’t have the same warmth or hold over us as the South Island. I would like to think that maybe we will be back to this special place again just one more time…..………

Our ferry was not ‘til one o’clock so plenty of time to get some supplies for our next stop in Plimmerton just outside Wellington. We have stayed here before and enjoyed it so it is a little uplifting as we leave this wonderful island via the Queen Charlotte Sound on the Interislander ferry.

South Island facts – driven 3260kms, stayed in 15 different places over 23 nights. Sun shone every day but one (rain on west coast and expect it there.) Longest drive between digs was Oamaru to Hanmer Springs at 410kms and shortest was Queenstown to Glenorchy at 45kms. Best digs were Lazy Cow in Murchison, worst was Pinewood Lodge in Queenstown. Favourite place was Glenorchy and least favourite was Invercargill. Best host was Ali at the Lazy Cow, the worst were the guys at the Legendary Otira Hotel in Arthurs Pass.

Pix are from top – fire en-route to Picton, what can you say, the ferry on Queen Charlotte Sound, Picton, the beautiful sound, a couple of strangers, the famous kiwi silver fern and sunset over the sound.

Nelson

More sunshine and another lovely drive along the north coast to Nelson. After a breakfast stop along the way we arrived in Nelson around 2pm. The old windscreen crack was getting longer so we decided to get it checked out in Nelson. (Remember this – on the way into Nelson we noticed a Mazda garage next door to the VW garage.) I went to the hire shop and told the guy of our problem. He said “no worries mate” like they do and made a call and then told me take the car round to get a new windscreen. Whilst he was waiting for a reply I said we had seen the Mazda garage on the way in. He put the phone down and said get round with your car now and they will do it today, it’s next door to VW (remember…)

We went to our digs - the green monkey and checked in then took the car to the mazda garage for a new screen. The guy at Mazda had no idea what we were talking about and said we don’t even fit windscreens!! After a couple of calls he directed us to a windscreen repair centre at the other side of town, next door to a VW spares centre!! Now what are the chances of that then. We left the car with them for two hours and they were all so helpful it was almost a pleasurable experience.

Whilst they replaced the screen we had a wander round town and found on the way – here’s one for the anoraks – the jeweller who made the ‘one ring’ in lord of the rings…wow!! Anyway enough nonsense, Nelson is a buzzing city with a large Cathedral and bustling shops. It is a busy sea freight terminal and on the edge of the wine and fruit regions.

Our digs were OK not as friendly as some but warm and cozy with a good sized room. There just happened to be a pub over the road, another that brewed it’s own beer. So once we’d got the car back to the digs we wandered over. Just next door there was a chip shop so we thought, yes evening sorted. We ordered some beer and were told by the friendly bar staff that if we wanted to order some fish and chips from next door they would bring them round to the pub where we could sit with the beers and eat them. Wow, were we shocked or what….imagine that in Wetherspoons!!

After dinner we wandered through a local park and there was a sign for the central point in all of NZ. Well, we had to so off we went up and up and up. Sadly it was getting dark so coming back down was fun. The views at the top were good and after the obligatory photo we went back to the digs.

The following day we had another walkr round town and picked up some BBQ grub. We had another local walk after lunch up above the city on some trails and then went back for some BBQ and a glass of pop like you do… We weren’t overly smitten with Nelson it was OK but there was something about it that was just not right but couldn’t pin point it. Any way our time on South Island was slowly running out and the next stop was the last on the island and this leg of our trip, off to Picton tomorrow where we get the ferry over to the North Island more later.
Pix are from top Nelson Cathedral, clearing the path for Mrs D, the ‘one ring’ maker shop, NZ central point plaque, NZ central point from the city below, our BIG car outside the digs and a view over Nelson.

Shambhala an Eco Paradise?????

Leaving the cosy, warm & homely Lazy Cow, we set of for the eco paradise of Shambhala in Golden Bay. It was a very pleasant drive up to the north coast where we have not been before. The weather again is glorious and scenery stunning. In the Nelson area of the north is where all the fruit growing takes place and boy was there acre upon acre of fruit there!!

Pay attention it’s education time again….This area is where the legendary Abel Tasman landed many moons ago and hectares of coastal bush are named after him and the Abel Tasman track runs through it. A four day hike, camping or staying in huts. Very popular with trampers (hikers) in the region. Golden bay where Abel landed used to be known as murderers bay as when he landed some of his chaps tried to get ashore and had a bit of a local scuffle with some Maoris and were sadly murdered – hence the name. Time passed and it was thought that “murderers bay” would not attract many people so it was changed to Golden Bay – wise move. (End of education for today!)

We arrived at our turn for Shambhala and drove down the 3km unsealed road to the main house. Well it was in a setting to die for overlooking golden bay only yards from a deserted beach. The main house was where “meditation and yoga took place.” We were greeted by a guy from Woodstock who I’m convinced didn’t know which planet he was on never mind which country…He showed us to our room which was away from the main house in a row of four with a kitchen area at one end. The room itself was super, the view will not be beaten I don’t think and the nature around was wonderful. So far so good.

Shambhala (translates to paradise in some Himalayan form) sells itself as an eco retreat with solar powered lighting and energy, rainwater collected for drinking and showering etc and solar heated showers. The toilets were of the composting type – I will let Mrs D have her say on the bogs as they were most entertaining.

Back up on the main road was a pub called the Mussell Inn which brewed it’s own ales and had live music on regularly. We were told by our host that music was on the night we arrived and that we might like to go, we did and more on that later. Meanwhile back at the ranch we were getting to grips with the lighting arrangements and checking out the showers. One of the showers was solar powered hot water so obviously it needs the sun. Mr Woodstock had had to concede and fit a second gas fired shower as it isn’t always that sunny and not having a hot shower would not go down too well with the guests after a days tramping round Abel Tasman.
The kitchen had another super view but was a little sparce on the implement and utensil front. It had one plug – for the fridge and gas bottle rings. Very quaint.

We had been tipped off re the kitchen by Mr & Mrs Spreadsheet as they were here before the Lazy Cow so we went with “easy cook grub!” Tins and pasta, tins and rice – you know the stuff. Grub mission accomplished we decided to walk to the Mussell Inn and do our bit for the eco happy people. (I have to report that our spaced out host failed here as he drove to the pub in his big car – not that eco concerned eh.) The local beer was good, the live music was OK but we spent the evening talking to two girls from the former eastern Germany. We actually met them at the Lazy Cow the day before as they were asking us about the rafting trip. They were twin sisters and one was out here on a working holiday and the other had come out to visit her for six weeks. Many entertaining stories were exchanged and they kindly offered us a lift back down. After noting Woodstock had driven up we thought to hell with the eco and it was hellish dark anyway and took up their kind offer.

When we got back the stars were at their best with zero light pollution. The solar powered lights up the steps to our room sadly were not, we got more light from the screen on my mobile. Anyhow, we stumbled back to our room and had a great nights sleep ready for an adventure in Golden Bay.

Without any further adieu over to Mrs D for a bog report…….”the toilets consisted of a wooden bog seat with lid nicely fitted over a large hole in the ground. The instructions read “when you have finished doing your business please throw a cup of chippings down the hole and close the lid! There was a big bucket of wood chippings next to the bog with a cup in it for the afore mentioned purpose. There is no other way to describe them but they stank!!! Please, with apologies to the greens, conservationists, tree huggers, all back to nature fans and friends of the earth – give me a tiled bathroom with running water and a flushing toilet anytime.”

The following morning watching the fantails and other birds flying around our wee balcony was super. Far more pleasant than the thought of nipping off to the toilet. After breakfast we drove out to Farewell Spit which is the most northerly headland on the south island. It is a long spit of sand-dunes extending out for 20kms. You are allowed to walk out 2.5kms onto the spit so we did and it was quite a different landscape again. We had a bit of trouble crossing the dunes in the middle as it got a little hot and there were a few rumblings from Mrs D and my walk leading skills were in disrepute again…..We then went to farewell point the true northerly point of the south island and then down onto a beach where there were some young fur seals swimming around in giant rockpools waiting for the adults to come back with the grub – sounds familiar. We drove back via the Mussell Inn and had a cool beer to give us courage with the toilets. (We could have used the pub toilets but sadly they were of the same design.) After some more swifty cooking another good nights kip with nature.

The next day was moving on day and hopefully proper toilet day so after an early start (decided to breakfast on the hoof so we could use the loos in the town on the way) we were off and on our way to a two nighter in Nelson.

Pix from top are - view from our Shanbhala room, kitchen, eco-shower, some old bones on the beach, Mrs D crossing the dunes, the most northerly south island point and the fur seal pups.

Off to the Buller Gorge & Murchison

Off early and yet another wonderful drive – never been to any country where every day the scenery is so different and so beautiful. That was of course ‘til we stopped for a brew and our small black flying mates the sandflies made a comeback aaaahhhhhhhh!!!!! After a very brief coffee stop we trundled along towards Murchison. We noticed also that our chipping crack in the windscreen was getting longer – one to watch……

The digs in Murchison stole the number one spot. Run by a couple from Somerset and just like home. Free cake, home cooking, super friendly and helpful. Just a small place but with a right mix of people. There was a young guy from Denver there and he walked into the dining area and announced he was going to make some bread and did anyone know what to do. We were sat chatting to a lovely couple from the UK and between us we sorted him out with his flour in one hand and yeast in the other. The bread making saga went on most of the evening and it was ready around 11pm when we were all instant guinea pigs – not bad was the consensus.

The couple we were talking to we nicknamed Mr & Mrs Speadsheet. They were like minded souls who had called it a day early and were previously pension software writers. Their whole retirement plan was dependant on what Mr Spreadsheet said (Mr Spread sheet was the actual spreadsheet they used and this was it’s name!) They put numbers in and got projections out, it was a most entertaining and enjoyable evening exchanging stories.

The next day we were awaiting confirmation as to whether there were enough numbers to get us out on a white water rafting trip!! Mrs D was not sure if it was a good idea or not…. The word came and we were, great stuff!! We left in a minibus with four other intrepid rafters. Two other Brits from London who were staying in a campervan Dave & Tracey, a German girl called Danni and a local Kiwi called Hamish. Our driver was Terry originally from Kent and our boat captain, steerer and guide was Marty a Kiwi from Westport.

What a mixed bunch, well you have us two oddities to start with then the Londoners on an annivesary holiday, Danni who had to come alone as her friend didn’t fancy it and Hamish who lived locally and went hunting and shot anything that moved deers, goats and possums!!!
Marty was good fun and filled us all with fear on the many commands we had to respond to as we were the engine and paddlers. The only thing in our favour was that the river was not as high as it could have been so the white water was not as fast or so he said…..

We all got changed into our rafting gear, trying to fight off the mass of sandflies who thought dinner had arrived big time as we hurriedly doffed off and changed into a team of rubbermen!!
Mrs D and I were put at the front allegedly to be the power oars, yeahh right!! The Londoners were behind us and the hunter and wee Danni were at the back with Marty behind them calling the shots and steering us through. So far so good? The worrying thing is the number of things you have to be told that will “probably not happen” like the boat turning over or falling out of the boat.

All geared up with rubber suits, life jackets, thermal vests and dinky rubber boots off we went down a lovely gentle river. Then came the rapids, tame according to Marty but not tame enough for him to keep hollering hang on and lean in!!! Mrs D kept copping for all the splash water at the front and we kept getting our rear paddle co-ordiination wrong but we got through.
We stopped on the point where two of the earths techtonic plates come together and the scene of NZs worst earthquake in 1964. The scars were still visible and the stories very interesting.
A few more bouncy rapids ensued then we had the option to get out of the boat and “body down” through a rapid. This involved floating down the rapids feet first and trying not swallow too much water. All but Tracey and Mrs D had a go and believe me – wise move – did I get some water down and catch my butt on a couple of rocks bouncing through……super.

More rapids and then the option to leap into the clear and I have to say warm waters of the Buller from an 18 metre rock. Seemed like a good idea from the boat but didn’t look too good from up on the rock particularly with Marty saying don’t jump to the right as it’s a bit rocky. Hamish the hunting machine went first – no problem straight in. Then Dave from a rock lower, then me from Hamish’s rock – it was a long way down and yet anoher lung full of water!! Good move by the girls staying in the boat and looking at us like we were stupid for clambering up the rocks.

After a few more rapids and then a steady run down we arrived at our BBQ lunch and end of the trip. Now I’m not sure who had the best BBQ us or the sandflies boy were they a pest today!!! Even Hamish couldn’t kill all these little tw**ts!! Lunch was woolfed down, we were speedily dried and redressed and a drive back to Murchison with Terry was undertaken. All in all a splendid outing apart from the SANDFLIES!!!!!

Back at the digs we cooked in tonight then sat and watched Billy Connolly in NZ on his trike. More people arrived, some on pushbikes others by car. Another enjoyable evening was had at the Lazy Cow and we did not want to leave as the next place had been briefed to us and we did not know what to expect. It was supposed to be a beach front eco-retreat, we will see.

Onward & Upwards - Oamaru to Hanmer Springs

Indeed up north to Oamaru for a night then up to Hanmer Springs for a night before a two night stay in Murchison. We are pretty much just making our way to the top of the south island where we haven’t been before.

Steady run up to Oamaru and an old Hotel is the base tonight – Empire Hotel BP. Very nice it was too big and roomy in quite an interesting town leaning towards the victorian era. You can imagine who this pleased. Oooooh yes, Mrs D was well pleased. We dined out in another hotel which did Victorian B & B, serving you breakfast in a lovely victorian room which you could look at. Good food, beer and victoriana was enjoyed.

The penguin set up here was a little different. It was an enclosed area near the harbour and nests had been built into the hillside for the little guys to come and go from. These are not endangered but under a conservation scheme to ensure they don’t become so.
Again as before the chicks appeared first lookin for some grub, with the parents coming just after dusk in rafts of 10 to 12 at a time. The sea was choppy, the waves were crashing, they are only 23cms tall and it was amazing they got to land at all. However they did and it was once again a wonderful sight. Unfortunately due to the usual minority, photos and video were not allowed due to folks using flash and upsetting the penguins. Understandable but a little disappointing.
We wandered back to the digs in the dark via the old harbour to the sound of penguin feeding time all around – wonderful…….

Another moving on day, this time to Hanmer Springs, a resort built on a thermal hot spring. We visited here last time but the weather was not too good. This time the weather is hot and relaxing a hot pool around 40 dgs sounds like a good idea???? The BP here is excellent, run by the French and topically called Le Gite.

The run up was let’s say interesting as we decided to take the inland scenic route up to avoid Christchurch. It was very beautiful but sadly very long. We racked up 425kms today and a chipping crack in our windscreen. It went with a right bang as we heard it when a 4 wheel drive passed us in the other direction at break neck speed. Like the UK all council funds have to be spent before the end of March to get them again next year. Here at this time everywhere you go there are roads being resealed (resurfaced in’t UK.) You can imagine the dust and chippings. Oh well, on we go.

The stay at Hanmer was very good and the local house cat – Janet – was very entertaining. After a good soak in the varoius sulpher and mineral based pools we decided to get out as we were in danger of shrivelling away – well past dried prune stage!!
The next day we were heading for Murchison and back onto two night stops. Also it was not a long a drive!! The good news at the moment is that we have lost the sand flies!!!!

Pix are from top - birds and buildings in Oamaru and the Rakaia river.

Invercargill and the Catlins.

Now, we stumbled across the Catlins on our last trip on the recommendation of some Kiwis we were staying with. It is very different to the west as it is mostly bushland and rainforest. Very pretty and we promised ourselves more time here if we ever came again. We have allocated three nights and two full days to the area primarily to see the yellow eyed penguins – the most endagered of the penguins on the planet.

Drive was good after a quick Warehouse fix in Queenstown to pick up some bargain luggage. Enough said too long a story but good shopping fix.
Our first night was in Invercargil the southernmost town on South Island and lonely planet have managed to upset the locals here with their not too complimentary comments about the town. Citing bad haircuts and check shirts as key to the town. To be honest there isn’t much here apart from a good museum in the town and the town of Bluff at the very bottom claiming to be NZs Lands End – not quite true see later.

Our backpackers was splendid – The Cackilng Kea – very homely place with no doors locked anywhere. Also the strange Kiwi custom of no shoes in the house.
Now no shoes in the house may not sound strange but a lot of the kiwis don’t do shoes or socks. They go out in town with no shoes. They go shopping with no shoes and they go round supermarkets with no shoes. Strange but true and as the sign said on the door – It is a kiwi thing! What more can I say.
We had a wander to the museum and saw a 100 year old reptile called Henry (who didn’t actually do much because of his age) went back and had a pretty good curry from a local curry house.

Invercargill has strong links with Scotland and plenty of Jocks living there. Whaling, years ago brought them to the town. We had a run down to Bluff in the evening to see the Lands end type sign above and a quick wander round. Then back to the Kea for some shuteye.

The next day we were heading for Curio Bay where the oldest and best example of a petrified forest can be seen on the beach. It is also the home to a small colony of yellow-eyed penguins – 8 couples to be exact, as we were told by a local guide and caretaker of the little guys.
Along the way we had two stops one at Waipapa Point and Slope Point. The first being famous for the worst sea disaster in NZ history and viewing rare NZ sea lions, which we saw. The second is the true most southerly point of the south island and the site of some trees at 45 degrees to the land due the south westerlys battering them continually. Both interesting spots with pix above to show.

We arrive at our backpackers (BP) the penguin paradise lodge. Very small and cosy but a little run down. Clean and warm though. We had a bush walk in the afternoon and early dinner so we could go down to see the star attraction. We were told by the lodge owners that they came back from a day fishing at sea around 7pm to feed their chicks. We arrived around 7 and were still there at 9 as they didn’t start coming in ‘til after 8!! The chicks appeared first standing on the edge of the bush where they lived, looking out to see for mum & dad and some grub!
They were well worth waiting for and very entertaining to watch feeding their young and seeing off the scavenging gulls.

We met a young Austrian couple in the digs who were cycling around NZ. No mean feat Ihear you say. However they had cycled all the way from Vienna to Bangkok in Thailand!! Wow, impressive. More so when they said they came via Iran, the Kazaks and China carrying 50 litres of water each across the Chinese desert. Hats off here, well done guys. After NZ they were flying to LA in the States for a ride over to the East before flying back to Europe to cycle the last leg back to Austria. They will have cycled a year when they get back home.

The next day we were moving on to the split level BP in Owaka, another super BP. New, clean and obviously cared for. On the way we stopped off at a waterfall and a bush walk in Papatowai which we had done before and thoroughly enjoyed.

Not far from Owaka is Jacks Bay and Blowhole. We had a drive out there in the evening and it was quite spectacular!! A huge hole 50 metres deep, 200 metres inland from the sea. The tide was high and the sea quite choppy so it was a good time to view it. Made you feel a bit rough looking over the sides. Signs everywhere re sheer drops and don’t go over fence and there is Mrs D shinning over the fence to get a closer look, what can you say especially in the presence of an ex Health & Safety man!!

We managed to catch up on some laundry here as supplies of smalls were getting low and our friends the sand flies had been following us all round south land, hence our anti sand fly outfits - long trousers, socks and shoes. Boy will we be glad to see the back of these little monsters. Rasping away at itching hands and feet in the night – not good!

We met the owner of the digs who wanted to talk all night but we managed to head her off about ten thirty. The next day saw us leaving the Catlins up north to Oamaru to see the smallest penguins in the world the Blue or Fairy penguins as they are known.

Pix are from top left - signpost at Bluff, George and New Zealand Sea Lion, Slope Point, Yellow Eyed Penguins & Papatowai.

Queenstown and Glenorchy (Isengard in Lord Of the Rings.)

Another sunny day and another early start. Heading for Queenstown today a steady 80kms away. Lovely run down through the valley of Cardrona. After a brief stop at the Queenstown end of the valley for some pix we drove up to the bridge on the Kawarua river we did our bungys’ 6 years ago. Still the same, all ages shapes and sizes hurling themselves from the bridge and most entertaining. We had a quick shall we do a double and jump together but it didn’t last long.
We then drove onto our digs in Pinewood lodge backpackers which just happened to be where we stayed last time we were here – pure coincidence. Sadly the room we had was not as good as the last time as we were in the old part of the complex and not the new which was better. Anyway, it’s just a place to eat & sleep so off we went for a walk into town. Queenstown for those of you who don’t know is the outdoor capital of the world never mind NZ. Every adrenaline rush you can imagine is catered for here. We had a wander, a drink and went back to eat, that was the day really.

The following day we decided to do a Mrs D (George) activity as we were in Queenstown so we went horse riding in Glenorchy. A wise choice we thought. Well the drive up Glenorchy is one of if not the most spectacular we have ever done. We came up here last time and just loved it and here we are again on our way to High Country Horses for a 2 hour streams and forest trek.
We were geared up with hard hats and allocated our trusty steeds. Mine was called Elmo and Georges was called George funnily enough! A five minute introduction to horses and horse riding was undertaken and off we went with our two leaders who obviously ate, drank and slept all things horsey. My nag was a steady soul who moved on when you pulled him up for stopping to eat but Georges nag was a bit feisty and would not be pulled up from sly grub intakes and when he’d finished he started running (no no I mean cantering in horsey spiel) to catch up with us all. Well you can imagine Georges face (Mrs D) when the beast set off she was most un-nerved. In fact George was quite uneasy the whole way round as four legged George kept stopping to eat and nipping at others when they nicked his spot in the line. The ride passed without accident or incident even though we waded across 2 rivers along the way!!

After the ride we had to go for a beer as Mrs D’s nerves were shot. We were setting off back to Queenstown and Mrs D saw some small cabins and said shall we stop here tonight as it was so good. We went and asked and decided to stay the following night and head back to Queenstown for a last night. Back in town we had dinner and went up the gondola overlooking Queenstown and retired early.

Next day we were chatting with a couple who were out here for 6 months and the guy was going for an interview as a vet to extend their trip and funds!! They didn’t intend to be working but cash was getting low so they went to Mrs D’s fave the Warehouse to get some bargain interview clothes!!

We checked out and went up to Arrowtown an old gold mining town not far away via the shotover jet to have a look at the jetboats hurtling up and down the river. We then headed for Glenorchy and our cabin in Glen Orchy which was used in Lord of the Rings as the setting for Isengard. If you take out Peter Jacksons CGI’s you will be left with Glenorchy a wonderful setting. A walk in the glen and dinner was enjoyed in the sun. What a place to wake up to though, it was cracking. It was yet another moving on day and it was off to Invercargill and the Catlins in Southland today.

Pix from top are George in front of giant sequioa, SS Earnslaw on Lake Wakitipu, the lake from the gondola top, Glenorchy, a few horsey pix and the shotover jet boat.