Friday, March 12, 2010

Invercargill and the Catlins.




















Now, we stumbled across the Catlins on our last trip on the recommendation of some Kiwis we were staying with. It is very different to the west as it is mostly bushland and rainforest. Very pretty and we promised ourselves more time here if we ever came again. We have allocated three nights and two full days to the area primarily to see the yellow eyed penguins – the most endagered of the penguins on the planet.

Drive was good after a quick Warehouse fix in Queenstown to pick up some bargain luggage. Enough said too long a story but good shopping fix.
Our first night was in Invercargil the southernmost town on South Island and lonely planet have managed to upset the locals here with their not too complimentary comments about the town. Citing bad haircuts and check shirts as key to the town. To be honest there isn’t much here apart from a good museum in the town and the town of Bluff at the very bottom claiming to be NZs Lands End – not quite true see later.

Our backpackers was splendid – The Cackilng Kea – very homely place with no doors locked anywhere. Also the strange Kiwi custom of no shoes in the house.
Now no shoes in the house may not sound strange but a lot of the kiwis don’t do shoes or socks. They go out in town with no shoes. They go shopping with no shoes and they go round supermarkets with no shoes. Strange but true and as the sign said on the door – It is a kiwi thing! What more can I say.
We had a wander to the museum and saw a 100 year old reptile called Henry (who didn’t actually do much because of his age) went back and had a pretty good curry from a local curry house.

Invercargill has strong links with Scotland and plenty of Jocks living there. Whaling, years ago brought them to the town. We had a run down to Bluff in the evening to see the Lands end type sign above and a quick wander round. Then back to the Kea for some shuteye.

The next day we were heading for Curio Bay where the oldest and best example of a petrified forest can be seen on the beach. It is also the home to a small colony of yellow-eyed penguins – 8 couples to be exact, as we were told by a local guide and caretaker of the little guys.
Along the way we had two stops one at Waipapa Point and Slope Point. The first being famous for the worst sea disaster in NZ history and viewing rare NZ sea lions, which we saw. The second is the true most southerly point of the south island and the site of some trees at 45 degrees to the land due the south westerlys battering them continually. Both interesting spots with pix above to show.

We arrive at our backpackers (BP) the penguin paradise lodge. Very small and cosy but a little run down. Clean and warm though. We had a bush walk in the afternoon and early dinner so we could go down to see the star attraction. We were told by the lodge owners that they came back from a day fishing at sea around 7pm to feed their chicks. We arrived around 7 and were still there at 9 as they didn’t start coming in ‘til after 8!! The chicks appeared first standing on the edge of the bush where they lived, looking out to see for mum & dad and some grub!
They were well worth waiting for and very entertaining to watch feeding their young and seeing off the scavenging gulls.

We met a young Austrian couple in the digs who were cycling around NZ. No mean feat Ihear you say. However they had cycled all the way from Vienna to Bangkok in Thailand!! Wow, impressive. More so when they said they came via Iran, the Kazaks and China carrying 50 litres of water each across the Chinese desert. Hats off here, well done guys. After NZ they were flying to LA in the States for a ride over to the East before flying back to Europe to cycle the last leg back to Austria. They will have cycled a year when they get back home.

The next day we were moving on to the split level BP in Owaka, another super BP. New, clean and obviously cared for. On the way we stopped off at a waterfall and a bush walk in Papatowai which we had done before and thoroughly enjoyed.

Not far from Owaka is Jacks Bay and Blowhole. We had a drive out there in the evening and it was quite spectacular!! A huge hole 50 metres deep, 200 metres inland from the sea. The tide was high and the sea quite choppy so it was a good time to view it. Made you feel a bit rough looking over the sides. Signs everywhere re sheer drops and don’t go over fence and there is Mrs D shinning over the fence to get a closer look, what can you say especially in the presence of an ex Health & Safety man!!

We managed to catch up on some laundry here as supplies of smalls were getting low and our friends the sand flies had been following us all round south land, hence our anti sand fly outfits - long trousers, socks and shoes. Boy will we be glad to see the back of these little monsters. Rasping away at itching hands and feet in the night – not good!

We met the owner of the digs who wanted to talk all night but we managed to head her off about ten thirty. The next day saw us leaving the Catlins up north to Oamaru to see the smallest penguins in the world the Blue or Fairy penguins as they are known.

Pix are from top left - signpost at Bluff, George and New Zealand Sea Lion, Slope Point, Yellow Eyed Penguins & Papatowai.

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