When we were last in NZ at Xmas in 2005 we were booked in here at a different lodge for 3 nights over Xmas. We were here last time to do the Tongariro crossing which is allegedly the best one-day walk in New Zealand. The weather was so bad – due to the altitude of the village and the mountains we only stayed one night and checked out on Xmas eve and moved on. We did manage to do the crossing later last time from Taupo and yes it was superb.
Today it was windy when we set off and the drive up was good. We arrived this time and the weather was clear and you could see the whole range of Tongariro mountains. This time we were planning to walk at the Ruapehu end of the range but as usual all this depended on the weather. The Canadian girl who was on the desk at the lodge was very helpful and confirmed that the weather the following day was not forecast to be too good.
Most of the accommodation up here at National Park is of the ski lodge type as it is a big ski area in the winter. Plateau lodge where we were, seemed better than the last place we stayed up here namely Howards lodge. It was not busy and apart from two others we had the place to our selves. After dinner we sat and watched some TV before sleep time. Pure coincidence but Stephen Fry was on TV in search of the almost extinct Kakapo in NZ. It was a most enjoyable watch. We watched it with a Dutch girl who was moving on to Rotorua the following day. She had done the Tongariro crossing that day with a guide and was tired out with the days excitement.
Next day, heavy cloud and heavy rain, super!!!! I don’t have a lot of luck with this area. We had breakfast and drove down the valley to a town called Taumarunui. Luckily we dropped out of the bad weather so the day was not lost but I didn’t get my mountain walk.
On the way down to Taumarunui we stopped at a Raurimu where a railway spiral had been built in 1908. It was declared an engineering feat at the time as the three horseshoe curves, one complete circle and two short tunnels allowed the rail line to drop 320 feet.
Now, sorry to ramble back but last time we were here we came up through Taumarunui from Taranaki and Stratford. We came up what is known locally as the forgotten highway. It runs through a small principality where rumour has it you get your passport at the towns hotel. A weird place as all stops when you drive through and everyone stares. A bit like a Stephen King novel full of weirdos. Anyway, back up to date and after our little stroll around Taumarunui we drew the conclusion that some of the weirdos from the forgotten highway had escaped and taken up residence here. Some funny folk about (excluding us!!)
We headed back up to Tongariro where the cloud had lifted and rain stopped so we drove up to Whakapapa village to have a look at the place. This is just a resort built on the side of the mountain to accommodate the tourists and skiers!! We also drove up to the ski field which is a little higher and had a look at the volcanic summit area. Dinner was enjoyed back at the ranch and as the place was quiet again we sneaked a movie in before shuteye.
Another attempt at a Mr D type walk was thwarted by the weather so our proposed walk up to the tarns on the shoulder of the volcano had to be cut short due to the cloud rolling in like a tw*t! It was still a pleasant walk and I didn’t get myself in trouble for going too far.
The surprise came at the end when we got back to Whakapapa village and there was a break in the cloud so we drove up to the ski village above Whakapapa and had a walk up to Meads wall a hellish rock face and (sorry) another Lord Of The Rings location – wow what a setting. A good stroll around was had with excellent views over the peaks and the valley below so at last I got my “high up fix!!”
Back at the shack after some grub and beers we sneaked in a bit of TV as we were there alone again….was it something we said??? Taupo tomorrow and another “out of town” backpackers…….
Pix are from top left – Raurimu Station, Mount Doom – (LOTR), George in National Park Station, some old dinosaurs, George looking down Taranaki Falls and me looking up them, the volcano range, Meads wall and valley, a road sign.
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