Pics are from the top - the group at the trail start, the trail route, with Caesar, first nights camp, the group & porters, dead womans pass, second nights camp, top of dead womans pass, looking back down the pass, third nights camp, the dining room, Machu Picchu mountain in foreground, view of Citaadel from the Sun Gate, a couple more of the group with and without their "matching trek hats," the citadel, four of us going to the Inca Bridge and finally the old trail leading to the Inca Bridge.
We arrived at kilometre 82 and we met the porters who were all busy sorting lunch and getting the carry packs organised. There seemed to be a lot of porters but when asked why, Lobo told us that the number is calculated on the basis of 1.5 porters per person on the trek. We sat down to a splendid local lunch, the first of many. The food along the trail, we all agreed was superb. Good in variety and taste, excellent bearing in mind they had to carry and erect everything prior to our meals.
The Inca trail is 42kms long or 26.5 miles if you like it in old money. Coincidentally there is an annual “Andean Marathon” run over the trail and the record holder has done it in 3hrs and 35 minutes!! Quite an achievement based on the terrain and the altitude. We will be doing it at a more leisurely pace with 4 days walking with 3 nights under canvas.
To spare me the chore of tapping here forever below is the schedule courtesy of Explore –
The trail was first explored by Hiram Bingham in 1911 and opened for walkers in 1970. The famous ruins of Machu Picchu are not the only historical remains within the area: many other interesting sites are hidden in places which can only be reached on foot, and have scarcely been explored.
DAY 1 - Our trek starts by crossing the Urubamba river, then follow its rapids down the Sacred Valley of the Incas to Llaqtapata (2700m). Here we camp below the ruins of Llaqtapata - 1st Camp (6km 2.5 hours)
DAY 2 - Following the course of the Kusichaca river the trail leads to Huayllabamba, a quiet village of Inca origins and the last settlement on the route. We continue to Llulluchapampa (3800m) which affords stunning views of the snowy peaks around us. Here we set up camp for the night - 2nd Camp 3,800m (10km 5.5 hours)
DAY 3 - Today we trek over the Warmiwanusca (Dead Woman) Pass (4200m), to the valley of the Pacamayo river with its tropical vegetation. We then cross the Runkuraqay Pass (3950m). Here the selva (jungle) becomes visible on the slopes of the mountains. Sayacmarca ruins are on a rocky promontory. They command an imposing view and have only one means of access, a narrow granite stairway. Our trail goes through cloud forest with vines, exotic flowers (among them orchids) and luxuriant trees, then on through an Inca tunnel and along a ridge above the Urubamba river to the lovely Phuyupatamarka ruins (3579m). The views of the Urubamba and (if we are lucky) the snowcapped peaks of Veronica (5750m) and Salkantay make these ruins one of the most beautiful places on the trail - 3rd Camp 3600m
(15km 8 hours)
DAY 4 - We descend to Winay-Wayna ruins (2591m), a small Inca city which, like Machu Picchu, was abandoned for unknown reasons. Then from Inti Punku – the Gate of the Sun – there is a sudden and fantastic view of the ‘Lost City’ itself, Machu Picchu, set in a grandiose landscape that amazes all spectators. We walk down through the site, then travel down to our simple accommodation in the town of Aguas Calientes situated on the valley floor below Machu Picchu - (11km 6 hours.)
DAY 5 - Our final morning is spent at Machu Picchu, probably the most astounding feat of engineering in all of ancient America. Temples, stairways, palaces and gabled stone dwellings are scattered everywhere, testifying to the energy and ingenuity of the builders. Train permitting, there may be time to climb the steep peak of Wayna Picchu to look down on the Temple of the Sun. Later we return to Cusco by train and then by bus.
The experience along the trail was superb, the weather was kind with dry and mostly sunny weather daily. The porters and guides looked after us really well. We had our main tour guide – Lobo then we had the two training assistant guides – Elvis and Caesar. I walked with Caesar on and off along the trail. His knowledge of the trail and areas was good.
We ate in the “dining tent” for all our meals, the porters even erected the kitchen and dining tents at lunchtimes for us. When we arrived at camp the tents were up, the thermarests inflated and our carry luggage on our mats. All in all it was “camping made easy.”
Day one was a steady stroll, day two was our first taste of a climb at altitude and day three was the killer. Day three had two climbs, one of which was the highest along the trail at 4200mtrs. The camps were all in super places with splendid views and or surroundings.
The last trek day when we arrived at the sun gate and our first view of Machu Picchu was excellent. The build up of Inca ruins along the trail was magical, each one that bit different and serving a different purpose but all the while building up to “the big one at Machu Picchu.” To see it for real is indescribable as everyone has seen the pictures but to be there and walk around it in all its historical splendour is unbelievable.
After the sun gate we wandered down to the Citadel and all the tourists who had all arrived by bus, we felt satisfaction and justification in being there after our 42km trail trek! After the obligatory photo shoot we headed down into town and the first shower for four days!!
Big showers all round and then out for some food before a good nights sleep. That was of course after the resumed daily fix of Pisco Sour which Bill managed to source for us! The following day we toured the Inca ruins had a detailed tour and description of the site by Lobo. It was excellent. W e then had a few hours free time before our train back. Some went back down to town but a few of us remained at the top to go and have a look at the old trail and Inca bridge. We passed a few more llamas en route and the trail became narrow and narrower with plunging verticals to one side of us. We could see the trail disappearing round the rock face and the Inca Bridge was quite spectacular – see pic. After more photos we headed back to the bus and back down into town for a bit of lunch before our train and bus back to Cusco.
The train journey was scenic following the river down through the valley. We only had to stop once to get some cattle of the rails but other than that it was a pleasant journey. The bus met us at Ollantaytambo and took us back to Cusco and our hotel for a couple of nights.
Inca Trail – mega thumbs up - DO IT!!!!!!
So, if you cast your foggy minds back we had some trouble getting to Cusco before the trail so we lost a bit of time here. We got back from the trail and were allocated rooms and then we went out to dinner.
Cusco, the old capital of the Inca Empire survives only in its ruins, imbued with an atmosphere of mystery and grandeur. The Spanish-style city of today, with its attractive pink tiled roofs, arcaded plazas and steep winding alleyways, stands upon tremendous Inca foundation stones. The interlocking stones, assembled so carefully that a knife blade cannot be forced between the multi-sided joints, were highly functional as well as beautiful – they are earthquake-proof! Today, we plan to visit the remarkable market at Pisac, perhaps the most famous indigenous market in Peru. We will also visit Cusco’s temple-citadel Saqsaywaman which broods high above the town, its huge, zigzagging stone walls broken into 66 sharply projecting angles to catch attackers in a withering crossfire. 20,000 conscripted workers toiled for 90 years to finish it. We also plan a walking tour of this lovely city to see important Inca monuments, such as the Inca wall of Hatunrumiyoc with its famous twelve-sided stone. The stone, measuring some 5 feet across, has the typical bevelled joints which create the patterns of light and shadow on Inca walls
All were quite a spectacle in different ways of course. There was a bit of free time to do some last minute Mrs D type shopping so we wandered and haggled our way round a local market. Armed with shopping and gifts we made our way back to the hotel. We were then out for a meal which had been put on by Explore, a sort of a compensatory affair. Well, what a carve up they might as well have not bothered! The food was probably the worst we had all the time we were away, the service made Fawlty Towers look like the Hilton. The chef at one point came out of the kitchen to serve drinks as we were all waiting for our drinks order. Some didn’t get their drinks ‘til after the meals. Even Lobo got roped into the drinks service – the poor guy he was so embarrassed. Well it was a major source of amusement. After dinner we found the alleged highest Irish pub on the planet so went in for a few beers.
Tomorrow we head off to Puerto Maldonado and the Amazon basin also farewell to some of our troops as they are heading back home and not doing the extension. We will be down to eleven from fifteen. It was to be another early start. The last part of our adventure will follow (then we can get back to more recent events as we are heading back to the UK soon from Corfu!)
The Inca trail is 42kms long or 26.5 miles if you like it in old money. Coincidentally there is an annual “Andean Marathon” run over the trail and the record holder has done it in 3hrs and 35 minutes!! Quite an achievement based on the terrain and the altitude. We will be doing it at a more leisurely pace with 4 days walking with 3 nights under canvas.
To spare me the chore of tapping here forever below is the schedule courtesy of Explore –
The trail was first explored by Hiram Bingham in 1911 and opened for walkers in 1970. The famous ruins of Machu Picchu are not the only historical remains within the area: many other interesting sites are hidden in places which can only be reached on foot, and have scarcely been explored.
DAY 1 - Our trek starts by crossing the Urubamba river, then follow its rapids down the Sacred Valley of the Incas to Llaqtapata (2700m). Here we camp below the ruins of Llaqtapata - 1st Camp (6km 2.5 hours)
DAY 2 - Following the course of the Kusichaca river the trail leads to Huayllabamba, a quiet village of Inca origins and the last settlement on the route. We continue to Llulluchapampa (3800m) which affords stunning views of the snowy peaks around us. Here we set up camp for the night - 2nd Camp 3,800m (10km 5.5 hours)
DAY 3 - Today we trek over the Warmiwanusca (Dead Woman) Pass (4200m), to the valley of the Pacamayo river with its tropical vegetation. We then cross the Runkuraqay Pass (3950m). Here the selva (jungle) becomes visible on the slopes of the mountains. Sayacmarca ruins are on a rocky promontory. They command an imposing view and have only one means of access, a narrow granite stairway. Our trail goes through cloud forest with vines, exotic flowers (among them orchids) and luxuriant trees, then on through an Inca tunnel and along a ridge above the Urubamba river to the lovely Phuyupatamarka ruins (3579m). The views of the Urubamba and (if we are lucky) the snowcapped peaks of Veronica (5750m) and Salkantay make these ruins one of the most beautiful places on the trail - 3rd Camp 3600m
(15km 8 hours)
DAY 4 - We descend to Winay-Wayna ruins (2591m), a small Inca city which, like Machu Picchu, was abandoned for unknown reasons. Then from Inti Punku – the Gate of the Sun – there is a sudden and fantastic view of the ‘Lost City’ itself, Machu Picchu, set in a grandiose landscape that amazes all spectators. We walk down through the site, then travel down to our simple accommodation in the town of Aguas Calientes situated on the valley floor below Machu Picchu - (11km 6 hours.)
DAY 5 - Our final morning is spent at Machu Picchu, probably the most astounding feat of engineering in all of ancient America. Temples, stairways, palaces and gabled stone dwellings are scattered everywhere, testifying to the energy and ingenuity of the builders. Train permitting, there may be time to climb the steep peak of Wayna Picchu to look down on the Temple of the Sun. Later we return to Cusco by train and then by bus.
The experience along the trail was superb, the weather was kind with dry and mostly sunny weather daily. The porters and guides looked after us really well. We had our main tour guide – Lobo then we had the two training assistant guides – Elvis and Caesar. I walked with Caesar on and off along the trail. His knowledge of the trail and areas was good.
We ate in the “dining tent” for all our meals, the porters even erected the kitchen and dining tents at lunchtimes for us. When we arrived at camp the tents were up, the thermarests inflated and our carry luggage on our mats. All in all it was “camping made easy.”
Day one was a steady stroll, day two was our first taste of a climb at altitude and day three was the killer. Day three had two climbs, one of which was the highest along the trail at 4200mtrs. The camps were all in super places with splendid views and or surroundings.
The last trek day when we arrived at the sun gate and our first view of Machu Picchu was excellent. The build up of Inca ruins along the trail was magical, each one that bit different and serving a different purpose but all the while building up to “the big one at Machu Picchu.” To see it for real is indescribable as everyone has seen the pictures but to be there and walk around it in all its historical splendour is unbelievable.
After the sun gate we wandered down to the Citadel and all the tourists who had all arrived by bus, we felt satisfaction and justification in being there after our 42km trail trek! After the obligatory photo shoot we headed down into town and the first shower for four days!!
Big showers all round and then out for some food before a good nights sleep. That was of course after the resumed daily fix of Pisco Sour which Bill managed to source for us! The following day we toured the Inca ruins had a detailed tour and description of the site by Lobo. It was excellent. W e then had a few hours free time before our train back. Some went back down to town but a few of us remained at the top to go and have a look at the old trail and Inca bridge. We passed a few more llamas en route and the trail became narrow and narrower with plunging verticals to one side of us. We could see the trail disappearing round the rock face and the Inca Bridge was quite spectacular – see pic. After more photos we headed back to the bus and back down into town for a bit of lunch before our train and bus back to Cusco.
The train journey was scenic following the river down through the valley. We only had to stop once to get some cattle of the rails but other than that it was a pleasant journey. The bus met us at Ollantaytambo and took us back to Cusco and our hotel for a couple of nights.
Inca Trail – mega thumbs up - DO IT!!!!!!
So, if you cast your foggy minds back we had some trouble getting to Cusco before the trail so we lost a bit of time here. We got back from the trail and were allocated rooms and then we went out to dinner.
Cusco, the old capital of the Inca Empire survives only in its ruins, imbued with an atmosphere of mystery and grandeur. The Spanish-style city of today, with its attractive pink tiled roofs, arcaded plazas and steep winding alleyways, stands upon tremendous Inca foundation stones. The interlocking stones, assembled so carefully that a knife blade cannot be forced between the multi-sided joints, were highly functional as well as beautiful – they are earthquake-proof! Today, we plan to visit the remarkable market at Pisac, perhaps the most famous indigenous market in Peru. We will also visit Cusco’s temple-citadel Saqsaywaman which broods high above the town, its huge, zigzagging stone walls broken into 66 sharply projecting angles to catch attackers in a withering crossfire. 20,000 conscripted workers toiled for 90 years to finish it. We also plan a walking tour of this lovely city to see important Inca monuments, such as the Inca wall of Hatunrumiyoc with its famous twelve-sided stone. The stone, measuring some 5 feet across, has the typical bevelled joints which create the patterns of light and shadow on Inca walls
All were quite a spectacle in different ways of course. There was a bit of free time to do some last minute Mrs D type shopping so we wandered and haggled our way round a local market. Armed with shopping and gifts we made our way back to the hotel. We were then out for a meal which had been put on by Explore, a sort of a compensatory affair. Well, what a carve up they might as well have not bothered! The food was probably the worst we had all the time we were away, the service made Fawlty Towers look like the Hilton. The chef at one point came out of the kitchen to serve drinks as we were all waiting for our drinks order. Some didn’t get their drinks ‘til after the meals. Even Lobo got roped into the drinks service – the poor guy he was so embarrassed. Well it was a major source of amusement. After dinner we found the alleged highest Irish pub on the planet so went in for a few beers.
Tomorrow we head off to Puerto Maldonado and the Amazon basin also farewell to some of our troops as they are heading back home and not doing the extension. We will be down to eleven from fifteen. It was to be another early start. The last part of our adventure will follow (then we can get back to more recent events as we are heading back to the UK soon from Corfu!)
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